River's End and Relia's: A Taste To Remember

Coming from a large, loud and deeply Southern family I would be lying if I said that most of my childhood memories and existence wasn't centered around food. Every family gathering, whether a wedding, funeral, or anything in-between was an excuse for the women in my family to cook and for the rest of us to eat. To this day, a golden piece of cornbread still tastes like a Sunday afternoon in my great-grandmother's kitchen. Windows thrust open to sweltering late summer, the smell of roses and baking bread, my great-grandmother up to her elbows in flour and cornmeal.

To me birthdays will always be homemade chocolate cakes, the chlorine of our backyard pool, fireflies at dusk, butter cream frosting dripping off my aunt's fingertips in the candlelight. Pecan pie is a family reunion tradition. Homemade stuffing is for Thanksgiving. Tortilla wraps and potato salad are Christmas appetizers. I can honestly say that every important memory I have is dripping with some sort of sauce or stuffed with some variety of cheese. Even now that I'm out on my own, I can't eat a steak without seeing my father and his two brothers circled around our grill, laughing and reminiscing about this car or that friend as the kebabs burned in the twilight, forgetting for a few moments that they were already old and that their children were hungry.

Needless to say, I've learned that good food is an essential part of a good vacation. That's why when I first came to NOC I made it a part of my mission for the summer to scout out the best dishes at NOC's two main on-campus restaurants: River's End and Relia's Garden.


At a little seaside cafe in Sorrento, Italy an Italian waiter once told me that the way to a woman's heart was through a good pizza. If that's true then River's End has been playing cupid for years, because amazing pizzas are their forte. Flip to the back of the menu and beeline straight for the Big Fat Greek Pizza with feta cheese, olives, artichokes and pepperoncinis. Opt for the gyro meat over the chicken and close your eyes as each bite whisks you away to the white sands and blue waters of Mykonos. If the Greek Pizza doesn't sound like your thing then the Veggie Delight Pizza is also a popular choice. Piled high with olives, mushrooms, broccoli, and tomatoes and bubbling with cheese, the Veggie Pizza is a great way to to make a healthy choice a delicious one. Split the 10 inch with a friend and pair it with the Greek salad for bonus veggie points!


If you need some extra protein to support all that paddling you plan on doing then choose the Bulls Sluice Burger. Smothered with mushrooms and Swiss cheese it tastes uncannily like a Philly Cheese steak except with tenderer meat and more substance. After my five year old cousin took a bite he confidently pronounced it “man food” but it has heartiness enough for both genders. Another great burger option is the voracious vegan. Crunchy as a burger on the outside, the inside is soft and melted veggie goodness with a little spice. In my opinion, the Voracious Vegan Burger is one of the best dishes on the menu whose unique flavor is enough to win over even the pickiest eater. If you're not feeling the complimentary side salad or chips then substitute the tater tots for an additional 75 cents (the best 75 cents you'll ever spend) and enjoy an old raft guide favorite.

Some other popular dishes include: the infamous Chicken Sherpa (a basmati rice dish cooked with stir fried veggies, cheese, and lentils), The Nantahala Gorge Club Sandwich, and Walnut Dill Chicken Salad Sandwich. Pair any of these options with the BBQ Whitewater Wings as an appetizer and the Homemade Cobbler for dessert and you have an unforgettable meal ahead of you.

River's End is a classic dining experience. It's a place to catch up with old friends, re-live moments on the river with family, or charm a first date. It's a place where nobody raises their eyebrows if you walk in with river gear on, where you can watch the fog roll off the river from your table, and where affordable prices meets great food. River's End is all the tradition and comfort of a family dinner at home with a unique rustic mountain flair.


And then there's Relia's Garden. Nestled at the top of a hill, surrounded by a garden filled with flowers and herbs, overlooking the river below; Relia's is truly something out of a fairytale. You walk into a scene of rustic elegance. Dark mahogany wood creates high ceilings and large windows inside and an expansive deck outside for meals. Soft lighting and candlelight makes every meal a romantic and special affair.


Throughout the whole meal our waiter Jacob was courteous, prompt and exceeded service expectations for a fine dining experience. Upon his recommendation we started out with the Black Eyed Pea and Collard Fritters appetizer. The dish was a mash up of black eyed peas and collard greens, lightly breaded and served with a sweet tangy ham au jus. Another popular appetizer is the Crab Stuffed Hush Puppies which is served with spicy mayonnaise.

We then moved on to our second course: light leafy salads with carrots and tomatoes, drizzled in lemon, ginger vinaigrette. The ginger vinaigrette gave the salad a distinctly Asian flair that was unusual and refreshing. With most of the entree dishes, the salad comes included in the cost. It presents a very nice prelude to the main event.

For the main course my friend ordered a crab cake po-boy sandwich with brussel sprouts and I had the Salisbury steak with mashed potatoes and brussel sprouts. If the appetizer and salad hadn't already impressed me, I would've been completely floored by the main dish. Both dishes were artfully arranged and presented in timely accordance with the other courses. The Salisbury steak was drenched in a succulent gravy that blended the satisfying familiar taste of Southern cuisine with the finesse of fine dining. The mashed potatoes were homemade and blended with herbs while the brussel sprouts were seasoned and cooked to perfection. The Salisbury steak was also featured as one of the daily Blue Plate Specials which allows you to try four-star dining at a very reasonable price.

I have never been a big seafood person. With my father suffering from severe shellfish and seafood related allergies, I was inculcated with a disdain for all types of fish from a young age. Needless to say, it was a feat getting me to try to the crab cake po-boy at all but I am so glad that I did. I was completely blown away. The bread was toasted and buttery while the crab cake itself was lightly battered and tender. I couldn't detect even the slightest salty or fishy taste. The crab cake po-boy sandwich was so amazing that it actually managed to convert me into a seafood person! Even, if it is just the occasional crab cake.


After our entrees it was on to the main finale, a piece of French Silk Pie. Made of chocolate ganache and the slightest pinch of cayenne pepper it's served with raspberry jam and cappuccino whipped cream. Although the mixture of chocolate and pepper may sound strange, it ended up being one of the highlights of the trip. The pepper brings out the overall flavor of the dessert and adds the lightest kick to the dish. It was a wonderful end to a spectacular meal.

Relia's Garden is truly a special and unique dining experience. It's food that takes me back to the comfort of my grandmother's kitchen while simultaneously providing the cultural experience of a New York City restaurant. It is a titillating encounter for the taste buds in a place that brings an elegance and romance to Smoky Mountain dining paralleled only by the beauty of the mountains themselves.

Food defines our memories. Each summer I've spent at NOC has been filled with whitewater adventures, moonlit hikes, and lakeside campfires; but what often really sticks with me are those dog tired breakfasts, lunches and dinners enjoyed afterward. And I know, in years to come, I won't be able to practice my roll, raft through a Class IV rapid, or look at a garden drenched in starlight without tasting a Greek Pizza or a slice of French Silk Pie.

Nantahala Outdoor Center: A Paradise in the Clouds

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This place just hangs onto you. It writhes its way under your skin, grows roots slowly into your heart and your mind, fills your eyes up with all that sky and rolling mist until one day you discover that you've become just as mossy green and craggy blue as the mountains themselves. And then that's it. The land has you and no matter how fast or far you try to run, you'll always be yanked back. Pulled suddenly and firmly back to dirt roads meandering through laurel and wildflowers up into cloud, to the shadow of a hawk flying endless circles against the sun, to the quiet steady ticking of water dripping onto moonlit boulders.


The Nantahala Gorge in the Smoky Mountains has had a irresistible hold on me for several years now. Blanketed in white fog and folklore the area has an effect that's both eery and thrilling. Originally the territory of the Cherokee Nation, it hosted the main trail between the Valley areas in Andrews and the busy Middle Towns on the Tuckaseegee and Little Tennessee River. Regarded with half-fear, half-wonder, the Gorge was rumored to contain a gigantic snake named Uktena and a community of wonder working little people called Yunwi Tsunsdi. The area was called Nantahala by the Cherokee, which translates into “land of the noonday sun” because the only time the sun could penetrate the high mountain peaks and reach the ground was precisely at noon. The scenery is breathtaking, the aura unmistakably occult, but my infatuation to Gorge delves deeper and finds its root in the community itself.


As the largest and one of the oldest outfitters on the Nantahala River, the Nantahala Outdoor Center serves as the main social outlet for guests, staff and locals in the Gorge. With three on-site restaurants, a late night bar offering live music, an outfitters store and a whole range of outdoor activities and lodging available; NOC has become somewhat of a self-contained mini-town filled with residents that are all passionate about the outdoors. When I first became an employee here, I had no idea just how tight knit and unique of a community I had stumbled into. Walking across Founder's Bridge you can unknowingly rub elbows with Olympic paddlers. Hanging out beside the NOC wave you can exchange banter with pro-kaykers. Raft guides from different companies salute each other on the river. Boaters of various skill levels, from all over the country come together to take on the “Mighty Nanty” and learn from each other every single day. Three summers later, and I'm still hooked.

The memories I've made during my summers here are moments I will carry with me my whole life. One of my favorite NOC memories is when my roommate and I were practicing rolling our kayaks at Fontana Lake. After watching me flail around for about ten minutes a very nice gentleman came over and worked with me for an hour until I improved. After he walked away my roommate informed me that I had just obliviously received an hour long kayaking lesson from NOC's first employee and one of the best kayakers in the area, Jimmy Holcomb, for free.

I wake up every morning not knowing where the day is going to take me or what type of adventure I'm going to have. One afternoon after work I was sitting at a picnic table by the river and I struck up a conversation with some paddlers that lived in the area. The next thing I know, I'm sitting in the back of a pick up truck, flying up a gravel road to a house on the very top of the mountain. On the screened-in-porch are three old men with long gray beards and toothless grins, holding a banjo, a stand up bass, and a washboard. Possibly the best bluegrass I have ever heard, and all from the comfort of a rocking chair.

And then there are all those nights spent up at Queens Lake. Sitting around a campfire and talking about nothing in particular as cicadas buzz all around us. Holding hands with a bunch of friends I've just met as we leap off the dock together, wild with youth and laughing in the moonlight. Moments and people I wish I could hold onto forever, but all of them as fleeting as the summer itself.

The days are hot, the water is cold, and time stands still. If you're in the Gorge a week, it feels like a month. An entire summer, feels like a year. With all of the whitewater rafting, mountain biking, hiking, and numerous other outdoor activities in the area you don't notice the time passing. In the Gorge cell phone service is limited and internet is even harder to come by. But I don't miss it. Surrounded by the people I care about and the things I love, I find that I don't actually need that Starbucks cappuccino in the morning.


The first time I rafted down the Nantahala River I was eight years old, on an end of summer vacation with my dad, my uncle, and my cousin. We ended up on a guide assisted rafting trip which meant that there was a guide in every other raft. Inevitably, my dad ended up self guiding our boat and although we had a few spills, it's an adventure that still comes up at family gatherings. The next time I braved the Nanty was on my sixteenth birthday with some friends from home. We had a lovely guide (and no swimmers this time) that led us in sing-alongs the whole way down. The summer I graduated high school I became NOC staff, and since then the area has become my anchor. The Nantahala Gorge is the place I feel most at home, and most content. It's the guiding light that gets me through each school year. My secret paradise hidden in the clouds.


Since my first rafting trip as an eight year old, I've been down the Nantahala River more times than I can count. But it never gets old. I have forayed out to other rivers with bigger rapids and greater thrills but its a love affair that never lasts. At the end of it all I always find myself leaning against Founder's Bridge, watching the sun set over a river blanketed in mist and purple in the dusk. Enjoying a glass of sweet tea with a childhood friend, having quiet conversation about the steady drip of water or the way a hawk flies. Watching an old love forge its way into my future, just as surely as it meandered through my past. And I know no matter where I go, or what I do in the coming years, the Nantahala Gorge will always be there, calling me back to this perfect place of mist and river and sky.

River Leaders of the Month July 2011: Kristin and Sean Bierle

Here at NOC we're looking forward to the Camp Cup Challenge next Monday and Tuesday. The Camp Cup is an exciting youth paddling event that gets a dozen summer camps and about 150 kids on the water for a slalom competition and a downriver race. It's likely the biggest kids whitewater paddling event anywhere. And though we enjoy, welcome and support the event here at NOC, the fact is it wouldn't be happening without two motivated and committed volunteers: Kristin and Sean Bierle. They come all the way from Boise to put this amazing event together for the campers. Why? According to them, "It's one of the highlights of our year."

Sean, Pebbles and Kristin paddling on one of the Alzar School's recent sessions.

Kristin and Sean spend most of their time supporting the Alzar School, a non-profit school that currently runs three-week programs focused on cultural exchange, service learning, leadership training and outdoor adventures. Between these programs the couple is devoted to building the foundation for the school's first full academic year in Fall 2012. Kristin works as the school's Executive Director and Sean is the school's Head Teacher overseeing curriculum development and implementation. The school's main campus will be near Boise, and students will get to embark on two international adventures a year. It is a really cool organization, and it's going to be even better when it goes year-round.

So why do these educators from Boise want to put on a race in North Carolina? Well, Kristin is a Tar Heel from Cornelius, NC who grew up paddling and going on outdoor adventures with her father. When she was 13, her father bought her a kayak, and she took a few lessons from NOC's Paddling School. She further developed her paddling with Gordon Grant at Camp Green Cove, and also at Green Cove she participated in the Camp Cup Challenge as a racer. Back then the race was organized by the Nantahala Racing Club with sponsorship from the American Canoe Association.

Though Kristin moved on to bigger rivers and now has her own kayaking students, the "Camp Cup" stuck in her memory as a wonderful event, and when she learned that the event stalled out in the early/mid 00's she decided to bring it back, which she and Sean did in 2008. Besides just executing on the event, the couple has rallied a strong coalition of manufacturers, instructors and outfitters for support, and the Camp Cup has grown very strong again over the past three years. The expectation is for another 150 kids to hit the water again in 2011.

Racers pose on the banks of the Nantahala before a run through the Camp Cup Challenge slalom course.

The event allows kids and teenagers to compete in a low-stress, supportive environment; they paddle one-person kayak (K-1), one-person canoe (C-1), open-canoe (OC-1) and two-person open canoes (OC-2). Racers get paddling experience, but also get to meet new paddling friends and practice leadership skills by rallying their camp teams.

The camp cup even brings together paddlers who already knew each other: more than once Kristin and Sean have seen kids who attend the same high school "back home" discover that they both like paddling, but they've been at different summer camps. Our hope at NOC is that the race participants will form lifelong paddling friendships and become the future leaders of paddling in the Southeast.

A Camp Cup Challenge downriver racer punches through the bottom of Nantahala Falls.

In the meantime though, we're looking forward to the riverside cheers, exciting gate runs, downriver sprints and, yes, even some of the "carnage" these boaters will provide early next week as they push and expand their abilities on the water. These guys and gals go all out.

So if you happen to be here Monday or Tuesday of next week, stop and thank Kristin and Sean for their meaningful impact on whitewater recreation and their extra effort to make an impact on the water and in the racers' lives.

America's Most Popular River: Tennessee's Middle Ocoee

The "Middle" section of the Ocoee river flows through the far Southeastern corner of Tennessee, just over the state line from Georgia and North Carolina. It's in a wonderfully beautiful area, surrounded by lakes like Blue Ridge, Nottely, Parksville and Ocoee. The locale is part of the Cherokee National Forest, and there are some great ways to spend a weekend outdoors there.

Nonetheless it seems like an unlikely place to boast the country's most popular whitewater river, considering it's not in the Rockies, Sierra Nevada Mountains or near the highest peaks of the Appalachians. So what's the deal? Here are the two simple reasons why the Ocoee is the capital of whitewater rafting in the USA:

1) The Ocoee should be the most popular river in the country because its fun rapids, moderate difficulty, continuous action, favorable water temperatures and dependable releases constitute the ideal mix of a mass-appeal whitewater trip. The only thing missing is a true "wilderness" section, but it probably couldn't be the most popular river in the country and maintain a wilderness atmosphere anyway. Despite its popularity though, it's a very beautiful river, and morning and late-afternoon trips do control the impact of heavy summer crowds.

2) It's an easy day-trip from Atlanta, Chattanooga and Knoxville, and it's reasonably close to Nashville and Birmingham too. There are some other Ocoee-like runs out there that just aren't all that close to big cities, and therefore they're not as accessible. It's not just the fact that there are nearby metro areas though; these are scorching-hot metro areas in a part of the country that wants to cool down on the water. (See today's article in the Huntsville Times if you don't believe me.)

Ocoee Rapids

In whitewater rafting popularity, it's all about the rapids. How many are there, and how fun are they?

Well, sometimes paddlers go on a trip and they ask the names of every rapid. Don't even bother on the Ocoee. There are a few big ones you'll certainly want to know, but 75% of this river is going to be splashing your boat. There's only one five minute pause in the action, and most folks are actually ready for a bit of a break by then. As for the big rapids, the short list of "the biggest ones," if you ask an enthusiast like me (I'm not really an Ocoee guide) is:

Grumpy's

The launch site for this trip is right below the dam separating the Upper and Lower sections, and it's a bit intimidating, especially considering that a pretty powerful rapid called Grumpy's is less than 100 yards into the run. The actual Grumpy hydraulic is tops on my list of "places where I'd like to remain in the boat on the Ocoee." You can see some footage of Grumpy's on this video from :28 to :46. Note the "hydraulic" is the big splash the raft kicks up at :36.

Broken Nose
Basically a curvy S-turn above two ledges, Broken Nose isn't as threatening to rafters as it's name suggests, though upside-down kayakers can attest to the reasoning behind its title. Footage of this rapid runs from :47 to 1:22, but the farthest-back boat in the shot beginning at 1:11 is probably the best illustration of the full length of the action.

Double Suck

Like most Ocoee rapids the route here is over a ledge and through the biggest obstructions--in this case two large hydraulics. Note the big spray coming off the first hole at 1:25. This is a fun rapid, though it's super fast. When you're at the top, the ledge is surprisingly large.

Double Trouble

Not to be confused with Double Suck, Double Trouble could be the most beloved rapid on the river. It unselfishly gives the people what they want: gigantic splashes, a fast bouncy ride and a relatively paddler-friendly environment. (If I had to swim the length of a rapid I suppose I'd choose this one.) See 1:37 till the end of the video.

Tablesaw

We don't have great video of Tablesaw because the river runs away from the roadside at this point, but this is the biggie. Here the river channels all its 1250 cfs of water through a tight rocky slot. This means you've got a fast, bouncy, powerful straight shot through some turbulent (pleasingly turbulent) whitewater.

Tablesaw rapid with a boat full of rafters midway through.

Diamond Splitter

This gets the "editor's choice" award from me. Easily the most photogenic rapid, Diamond Splitter gives paddlers multiple route options and a splashy ride over the sticky, but not-to-worrisome Witch's Hole.

Diamond Splitter rock proudly bisects its eponymous rapid.

Hell Hole

Site of the last ICF Freestyle World Championships held in the US (1993), Hell Hole, for rafters, is just one quick splash. But when you're on the bus ride back to the outpost it's the wave you'll be remembering as 15-foot wall of water to your nodding companions. See the photo, and you can understand.

A raft stalls out briefly on its way through Hell Hole on the Middle Ocoee.

When to go:

The Ocoee runs Thursday through Monday in the three main summer months, and on the weekends from March to October. It's controlled by the TVA so releases are fairly standardized, but if you pay attention to weather and other factors it is possible to get a beefed-up Ocoee trip with some extra water in the river.

Otherwise go when it works for you. Most trips are the same, but early-morning and late-afternoon trips are a good avoid-the-rush option.

Ocoee Discount Special Trips

Also note that you can save almost 50% by booking an off-peak time on select days. Book one of these trips and you'll get the same Ocoee rafting experience for only $25 per person.

Reserve one of these limited spaces here.

Also, consider participating in the American Cancer Society's "Fight the Rapids for Cancer" event on July 17. NOC will donate $1 for every rafter we take down the river this Saturday, and guests will also have the option of purchasing an event T-shirt that day as well. Book now to participate in this great event.

To book, use NOC's secure online reservations system or call 888.905.7238. More information is available at NOC's Ocoee rafting page.

The Ocoee's Popularity

Up until 2008 there was some confusion on what the nation's most popular river actually was. The Arkansas River in Colorado used to have more total rafters than the Ocoee, but it also has numerous popular sections: Bighorn Sheep Canyon, Brown's Canyon and the Royal Gorge are all very popular. Without a doubt the Middle Ocoee is the most popular of all these stretches of river, and though the Ocoee has a second section, the Upper Ocoee, its tight release schedule limits its runs. (The vast majority of Upper guests do the combo trip anyway, meaning they run the Middle section as well.)

Now this section-by-section analysis is unnecessary anyway. The Ocoee has continued to grow and maintain its popularity and now has more rafters than the sum of all the Arkansas's sections. So, the Ocoee can brag about being "America's Favorite" whitewater without having to use an asterisk.

There's no reason not to be gracious though; the Arkansas and the Ocoee are actually pretty similar (splashy, continuous and comfortable during peak season) even though the Arkansas's desert environs and big runoff flows are nothing like the Ocoee's. (It's a river worth experiencing if you head off to Colorado sometime.)

When You Go to the Ocoee:

If you'd like to make an overnight trip our of your experience, here are some places to stay. The Cherokee National Forest offers excellent opportunities to adventure-lovers looking for more than whitewater:

Mountain bike at the Tanasi Trail System, Old Copper Road Historic Trail or at the Jackrabbit Mountain Bike and Hiking Trail system in Hayesville, NC.

Dayhike to Benton Falls or enjoy the scenic spur hike.

Drive the beautiful Cherohala Skyway.

And, if you really like rafting the Middle, you'll probably want to consider coming back for the Upper/Middle combo trip sometime.

Chattooga Section IV: the "Ultimate Whitewater Experience?"

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Before I had a driver's license I paddled whitewater rivers two ways: 1) finding rides with driving-age friends or 2) "paddling vicariously" through guidebooks. Being from Georgia I had William Neely's illustrated Whitewater Home Companion: Southeastern Rivers Volume One, Monte Smith's new-at-the-time Southeastern Whitewater and the classic Appalachian Whitewater: The Southern Mountains. Thanks to the accounts in the books I understood the conversations of "real" paddlers, and I knew routes through rapids I'd never even seen. I read each page of the books until I knew every detail about the Ocoee, Nolichucky, Gauley and, of course, Chattooga Section IV.

Even before I ran my first Class IV rapid I knew that running Section IV was my paddling goal even though there were bigger, more difficult rivers in the books. Why? Partially because Section IV was so famous for its contributions to the movie Deliverance, but also because the authors of the books didn't write the same way about Section IV as they did about other rivers.

When authors discussed Section IV I could detect the unique respect. My copy of Appalachian Whitewater reads: "The scenery is nothing short of spectacular for almost the entire length of the river. Its excellence rivals any river in this country." The writers continue, "...the reputation of Section IV as an ultimate whitewater experience is probably what brings throngs to the Chattooga."

Southeastern Whitewater reads: "For a few years after the release of [Deliverance], this stream was the sine qua non of whitewater paddling... Section IV remains a formidable stretch of whitewater. The run is unique in many ways, and it's always a treat. Few rivers live up to their reputation. Section IV does." The latter book even tried to quantify the Chattooga's reputation, assigning it a "reputation value" of 139 on a scale where 100 was the midpoint. This was one of the highest in the book.

Part of what makes the Chattooga special is Section IV's famous Five Falls. The Five Falls are five Class IV-V rapids in quick succession near the end of the run. Monte Smith described these as, "...something else. Few other one-third mile stretches exceed it for sheer excitement... the Five Falls have to be seen to be appreciated. As the water rises about 2.0 feet, the falls progressively lose their individuality as they blend into an uninterrupted maelstrom of frothing, crashing, churning, exhilarating whiteness" (Southeastern Whitewater). I would stare at the book's photos and anticipate my own future approach to the "launching pad" ledge at Soc-em-Dog, the river's Class V finale, hoping to get my line just right.

As I grew up I progressed and made it down Section IV finally. I even started running rivers supposedly more difficult than the Chattooga like the Tallulah and the Cheoah, but I noticed that, even after a few runs on each river, I didn't get nearly as anxious or as excited about those rivers as I did about Section IV. At the other rivers' big rapids I was much more relaxed and conversational than I ever would be above, say, Jawbone on the Chattooga. Why? Probably because I didn't know as much about these other rivers, and I hadn't built the rapids up for years in my mind. But maybe this is also what it's like playing baseball at Wrigley Field or racing at the Brickyard: you just enjoy being a part of it.

That said, there are some objective reasons why you'd be a bit more focused at the Five Falls: first the river's been pretty friendly until you get here. Yes, Woodall Shoals, Seven Foot Fals and Raven's Chute are big, fun, challenging rapids, and then there are all the bouncy smaller rapids too, but the Falls are totally different. The atmosphere changes; the wide open, sunny river closes into a constricted gorge. Direct sunlight fades behind the raised treeline. The river gets loud too—five big rapids that close together make an impressive white noise backdrop. Plus, everyone in your group who was splashing around and jovially goofing off at the lunch spot is suddenly more focused.

Looking downstream from the top rapids you can see water splashing up from the far side of horizon line ledges, and you know there's another pretty steep rapid right after the one you're about to run. This makes you a bit more focused on getting things just right.

Despite the action at the Five Falls, I think that the river's wide range of experiences and moods is why it's the "ultimate river experience". When it's relaxed, it's as casual and benign as a river can be: you're swimming in lazy warm pools, jumping off rocks into the gentle current, walking under beautiful waterfalls and eating lunch on sandy beaches. But when things start to pick up the action gets going. The rapids on Section IV tend to drop over ledges and broken ledges, making them fast and technically challenging to the guides and paddlers, and when the rapids come in quick succession, things get intense.

At the end of the trip you float into the flatwater Lake Tugaloo, and you've got time to reflect on the experiences of Section IV. This is one more feature I love about the river; it's got a good narrative form, with solid rising action, a clear climax at the Five Falls and a pleasant denouement crossing the lake. The Chattooga doesn't easily allow you to "squeeze it into your schedule" or "just do the biggest part." You've pretty much got to experience the whole thing.

This is a big reason why the Chattooga is a true wilderness experience. Not only is it protected as a Wild and Scenic River (which means you won't see many rafts while you're out there), but it's also deliberate. The river demands that you invest some real attention in your surroundings and your companions, not just the rush and thrill of the rapids.

At NOC, where we work and play on rivers all across the Southeast and the world, Section IV is still one of our staff's most beloved whitewater rivers. It's probably the trip I'd select if I was trying to demonstrate to someone why I love rivers and rafting as much as I do. On most other rivers I'd talk about the rapids and the scenery to describe why it's so great, and I'd do that for the Chattooga too, but the reason it's so great to me is its "aura." The Chattooga just has something other rivers don't.

*See pages 32-39 in Appalachian Whitewater and pages 107-121 in Southeastern Whitewater for the sources of the excerpts above.

Going to Water: Chattooga Section III

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I have been in love with rivers for as long as I can remember. The rush and crash of rapids, hidden waterfalls pouring into shaded mountain streams, the warm lazy flow of a river too old to hurry. All provoke images of summertime vacations in the mountains, fingers sticky with strawberries from riverside picnics, my father's rough steady hands as he guided our canoe through a maze of rocks and tree limbs on to safer waters. Throughout my adolescent years I was fortunate enough to see a lot of whitewater. The mountain rivers and the adventures we had on them became a knot that tied my father and I together even when I forsook bedtime stories and stuffed animals for boys and makeup. But when I was in high school my father suddenly passed away. The family trips to the river stopped and it felt like my canoe was adrift without a guide.

The next time I braved whitewater would be years later on summer vacation with some friends from college. They managed to talk me into a full day excursion with the Nantahala Outdoor Center on Section III of the Chattooga River in Mountain Rest, South Carolina. A few weeks later I found myself seated in the front seat of a 95 Taurus watching the suburbs give way to pine trees and misty hills. Valleys and green slopes hung wet and shining with the rain from the night before as the pink light of sunrise seemed to spill over the peaks of each hill like water
breaking free of a dam.

The Chattooga River is a river that seems to be caught between two worlds. Designated a wild and scenic destination by the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1974, only 15 miles of it is available for recreational use. The rest of its 57 miles are completely wild and protected by the Sumter National Forest on the South Carolina side and the Chattahoochee National Forest on the Georgia side. Originally belonging to the Cherokee Nation, the Chattooga River was a point of constant contention between the Cherokee who viewed the river as sacred and the Scotch-Irish settlers that wanted to exploit the area for logging and mining in the 1800's. Today the Chattooga runs the border between South Carolina and Georgia, as if it can't quite decide where it belongs. Its a river torn between two times, harkening back to the old world yet constantly threatened by the progress of today.

We arrived at the NOC Chattooga Outpost around 8 am and the staff were very courteous and time efficient. We watched a safety video and our trip leader gave us a trip talk before we put on our helmets and PFDs and boarded the bus for a quick bus ride to the top of the river. Everyone helped carry gear and rafts about ¼ of a mile down to the put in because of Forest Service regulations that prohibit automobile traffic too close to the river. The air was thick with the smell of damp Earth and honeysuckle. The dense pines crowded over us and the rush of the river grew louder with each step. The sound was an aching reminder that this was the first time I would face the river without my father by my side.



When we reached the bottom the trip leader assigned us our guide, a tan shaggy-haired guy in his twenties. In our boat it was the four of us and a couple in their thirties. We all piled in and then headed out. The dark cool water snaked out before us and the sun blazed just over the tree line like a beacon. I hadn't quite anticipated how isolated the Chattooga River was from the outside world. Apart from our trip, there wasn't another raft or boat in sight. A hawk sailed in low circles above us and our guide pointed out a river otter just as it disappeared beneath the surface. There was no sound of traffic, just the river pounding louder with each paddle stroke. River water filling up my veins, sunlight in my eyes. All of it reminding me of times past.

Our guide explained that the Chattooga was a “drop-pool river” consisting of ledges and drops that make up the swift rapids and brief calm pools afterward. As we went over each rapid he ordered us all to lean in and paddle. My friend Jackie and I were seated in the front and constantly found ourselves drenched by waves of water (which the rest of our boat found very entertaining). We plummeted through rapids with names like Warwoman, Dicks Creek, and Sandy Ford that ranged from Class II to Class IV.



We pulled over for lunch on a sandy beach around 11:30 and the raft guides arranged a a great sandwich spread on the bottom of an overturned raft covered in a picnic blanket. We could choose from ham, turkey, PB& J or a delicious hummus spread for our sandwiches. They also included chips, some veggies and dip, and cookies for dessert with lemonade and sweet tea to drink. Several of the kids on the trip took the opportunity to go swimming in a little class I rapid that ended in a calm pool. My friends seized their "inner kid" too and leapt into the rapids, shouting for me to follow. Instead I just lay back on a large rock jutting out into the water and marveled at the way the river still managed to make me feel peaceful and free after all that time.

After lunch we took on a few more Class III rapids before pulling over and preparing for the big Class IV rapid on the trip, Bull Sluice. Everyone got out of the rafts to walk up a rock outcrop to take a look at the broken ledge and white frothing whitewater below before deciding whether or not we wanted to go down or take the foot path to the other side. As soon as we got to the top of the outcrop the sky turned ominously dark and rain began falling in great sheets. Two of my friends took one look at the rapid and then instantly took the trail to walk around. Me and Jackie stood looking at the roaring rapid and rushing water churning over the drop. She glanced at me and grinned. I knew at that point that we were going over,whether I liked it or not.

We walked back to the boats and took our seats up front and our guide ferried back out into the swift current. My heart pounded in my chest as we were borne swiftly toward the drop. Glancing to my left I noticed that Jackie's face didn't look quite so confident anymore. Thunder cracked overhead and the guide shouted over the storm to get down. Jackie and I scrambled to sit in the bottom of the boat as we plummeted over the drop and into a wall of water that briefly submerged the whole raft. In seconds it was all over and we were back on the surface of the water, safely in the boat, and paddling our way into the calm eddy waiting for us on the other side. As terrifying as the rapid had been in the moment, I was immensely glad that I had tried it. Looking over my shoulder at Bull Sluice, I realized how much braver I had gotten over the past few years. As a kid I never would've been fearless enough to tackle a drop like that, even with my father at the rudder.

Shortly before we reached our take out point at the end of Chattooga Section III our guide told us a story about the Cherokee people that used to live in the area. A long time ago they believed that the Chattooga was sacred because if you followed the river back to its origin it would lead you into the spirit world. Therefore, they would “go to water” and immerse themselves in the river to cleanse and heal their souls. The sound of the rapids roaring and crashing was really the voice of the father of the river, a god called “Long Man” who was using the water to converse with spirits in the other world.



As we boarded the bus at the end of the river and headed back to the center I thought about how my trip on the Chattooga had been, in a way, my “going to water”. It helped along on the
road to healing and it gave me the bravery to embrace a passion that I had, long ago, let slip away. And as the bus engine roared and the sound of the river faded behind me, I couldn't help but think that I heard a familiar voice in the rapids, whispering words of encouragement and love from a distant world.

A Parting Salute to NOC Legend Wayne Dickert

This June is the last month our beloved Wayne Dickert (“Wayner”) will be working a NOC. The good news: Wayne’s leaving us to become the Pastor at Bryson City United Methodist Church in town, so he’ll be realizing an important personal goal, and will still be nearby. The bad news: much less Wayner on the water and around the NOC campus.

For those only a little acquainted with Wayne’s tremendous contributions to NOC and Southeastern paddling in general, here’s an abridged version of his vast accomplishments.

Professional:

Wayne began his professional whitewater career thirty years ago on the Ocoee River near his East Tennessee home. In 1981 he started guiding rafts with Sunburst Adventures on the Ocoee River, where he remained for six years until NOC purchased the Ocoee-only outfitter in early 1987. After two additional summers working on the Ocoee Wayne moved to the Nantahala in 1988 to guide NOC paddling and rafting trips.

From the beginning Wayner gravitated to canoe and kayak instruction at NOC. Due to his impressive career as a competitive paddler and his adept teaching methods, Wayner quickly became one of the core instructors in the Paddling School. Originally Wayne spent his non-instruction time from November to February creating custom wooden paddles with Homer King, builder of the legendary Silver Creek paddles. While at Silver Creek, Wayner and Homer designed some of the first curved wooden canoe blades. Less well known was Wayne’s short and fat shallow-river blade Homer nicknamed “the shovel.”

However, in 1993 NOC became one of the primary sponsors of the The Nantahala Racing Club and Wayner found himself immediately involved. Wayne's off season time was consumed by administrative and leadership work for the club. From ’93 to ’96 Wayner maintained his NOC/NRC/competitive paddling lifestyle until he left NOC in ’96 to accept a position at USA Canoe/Kayak as the Development Director—helping the US team field world-class whitewater athletes in international competition.

Wayner returned to NOC full-time in ’99 as the head of the NOC Paddling School, where he remained until 2009. His ten years in this position were immensely effective: his extensive experience in paddling instruction and his notable competitive accomplishments made him a visible and effective leader. Wayner began his slow transition to the church in 2006 when he enrolled at Gordon Conwell Theological Seminary to earn a Masters in Divinity. In 2007 he started the River of Life Ministry at NOC, giving paddlers a casual, early-Sunday summer service followed by an optional group river trip. He accepted the role of “NOC Ambassador” in 2009 as he began the transition to church life and finished up school. In this role Wayner helped start the Canoe Club Challenge, worked with the Southeast’s summer camps to get young paddlers on the water and helped the Nantahala area win the 2013 ICF World Freestyle Championships.


During his career in professional paddling Wayner racked up some pretty amazing accomplishments:

• Two “Best Instructional Video Awards” from the National Paddling Film Festival, one for 2005’s River Runner’s Edge—a project Wayne worked on with Kent Ford, John C. Davis and Phil & Mary DeRiemer –and the other for 2006’s The Kayaker’s Toolbox with Joe Holt.
  



• Two National Outdoor Book Awards for the Instructional category for Basic Canoeing (2003) and Basic Kayaking (2005).
  



• He was one of the boat designers for the 1992 gold-medal winning C-2 boat nicknamed “Patriot” along with Horace Holden Jr. and the boats’ paddlers Scott Strausbaugh and Joe Jacobi. This boat remains the only US Olympic championship boat.
  
  


• Wayne collaborated (to varying degrees) on the designs of many production boats including the Dagger GT, Dagger Approach, Dagger Mamber, Dagger Juice, Dagger Rx, LiquidLogic Remix, LiquidLogic Hoss and more.
  
  

Once a group of Wayne's students were reviewing his bio, and after they read about his accomplishments their main comment was “Whoa, you had a moustache?!”

Some people are just hard to impress.

Competitive Paddling:


Wayne started paddling slalom in the spring of 1981 on the Ocoee River in a Perception Mirage at the old Ocoee Double Header race. He enjoyed it so much that he immediately purchased a slalom kayak. In May of the same year, Wayne borrowed a slalom canoe and, as Wayner says, “it just felt more natural to me.” So, the kayak was gone almost as quickly as it arrived, and Wayne became a C1 (decked canoe) racer. “I was young and stupid; it didn’t matter that [canoeing] was harder.” Wayner preferred the leverage and sightlines of the canoe, and all of a sudden he was training and competing for whitewater slalom and downriver (or Wildwater) events.


Though he made the US C-2 Mix team in ’82 and raced in the West German Nationals in ’83, Wayne didn’t began winning consistently until 1984. In ’84 Wayne was the top ranked downriver canoe racer in the US (after winning the Pan-American Cup), and he remained one of the top downriver competitors through ’89 when he “retired” for the first time.

However, retirement didn't last long and it was less than a year before Wayne and Horace began toying with the idea of a forming a slalom C-2 team, a development that resulted from an informal, why-not-try-it whim paddling session. Horace and Wayne’s casual paddling session was surprisingly competitive and ’92 Olympic coach Fritz Haller started encouraging and coaching the new C-2 team.




At the 1996 Olympic Team Trials Wayne and Horace actually defeated their coach Fritz Haller and his brother Lecky, with four solid runs on the Olympic Course at the Upper Ocoee. At the Olympics Wayne’s team placed 11^th after a misjudged maneuver on the first run resulted in a technical penalty and after Wayne dislocated his thumb before the second run. Despite this, Wayne maintains that his biggest disappointment from the Olympics was that the US didn’t get two C-2 boats qualified so he could have competed again with his friends Fritz and Lecky.





Today:

Despite having spent a good part of the past 30 years on the water, Wayne is still one of the NOC employees you’re most likely to see on the river. Many employees split time between the river and nearby hiking or biking trails, and some see the river “plenty” during the work day, and head for the house or to town after hours.

Not so for Wayner. He’s probably the colleague most likely to lobby you into spending a lunch break on the water, or to work through lunch and leave for a 4pm “on the river meeting”. You’re likely to see him working with aspiring athletes at the gates, surfing on the Surf School wave, or scouting the falls with a young paddler.

We asked him two questions to wrap things up:


Q: What’s your favorite part of paddling?

A: Teaching Beginners. I enjoy seeing beginners fall in love with the sport. I even like it better than working with advanced paddlers who know what they’re doing. I’ve always liked the beginners the best.

Q: What’s your favorite river?(It’s got to be the Ocoee right?)

A: Well, yeah the Ocoee would be there because it’s been such a big part of my life: I got married there, started working and paddling there and competed in the Olympics there, but my favorite river is the Tallulah actually. It’s just so beautiful and the rapids are so fun.


So, that about sums this recap up. Note that this story doesn’t really have an ending; Wayne still loves boating, and you’re likely to see him out and about whenever he gets a chance. We expect they’ll be keeping him pretty busy over there at Bryson City United Methodist, but hopefully after things settle in a bit we’ll start seeing Wayne back on the river—though we're not expecting him at any future Sunday releases on the Tallulah.

Thanks Wayner.



Editor's Note: Join us at the first 2011 Canoe Club Challenge (on the Nantahala Saturday June 18th) and thank Wayner for his contributions to paddling. We'll be throwing him a big going away party after the event!